bodysurfing

last summer i went with my parents to north carolina to visit my brother. we went to the coast. i hadn’t been to a beach warm enough to swim in for a long time. while playing around in the waves the first day i somehow accidentally bodysurfed back to shore. it’s such a wonderful feeling. we got a board to use too, but it’s really much the same with or without it.

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bodysurfing

bodysurfing

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I loved how the waves pushed me forward, sometimes gently, sometimes with more force than predicted, how i might stay on top to see the color of sun on water right at eye level, shining all the way, or get shoved down into the dark sand, wrestled by the water and somersaulted, with some scuffs on my skin and a i-got-smacked feeling in my skull. We were only there a few days but my body remembers it so well, i have dreams about it all the time.

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3 responses to “bodysurfing

  1. The paintings are beautiful…someday I will get my hands on one and it will be one of those things in my “tornado bag”…(I used to have a giant red bag packed in case of a tornado and it sat at the top of the stairs on stormy nights).
    I was in the ocean at Padre Island the day before Katrina hit New Orleans…(I had no clue there was even a bad storm brewing in the gulf) the water was violent and angry to say the least….Rob insisted on staying in the water – I left after a wave nearly broke my spine in two….on an ordinary day…you are right – the best part of body surfing is getting rolled by a wave…suddenly you are tumbling not knowing up or down and then there you are on the beach…a total loss of control and commitment to gravity and oxygen for what seems a lifetime.

  2. I love this picture, especially how you’ve captured the sort of 2 dimensional, “one-with-the-water”, lifting-up sensation in the top figure and compared it to the separate from the water, 3 dimensional, trying-to-escape feeling of the bottom figure. Is it really as dark as it appears on you site, or is that just an effect of digitizing?

    • i think the scan is pretty accurate…it’s drawn on blue-grey paper…probably makes it a bit shadowy-er. yeah, that’s not a real word…
      thanks paige!

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