last summer i went with my parents to north carolina to visit my brother. we went to the coast. i hadn’t been to a beach warm enough to swim in for a long time. while playing around in the waves the first day i somehow accidentally bodysurfed back to shore. it’s such a wonderful feeling. we got a board to use too, but it’s really much the same with or without it.
I loved how the waves pushed me forward, sometimes gently, sometimes with more force than predicted, how i might stay on top to see the color of sun on water right at eye level, shining all the way, or get shoved down into the dark sand, wrestled by the water and somersaulted, with some scuffs on my skin and a i-got-smacked feeling in my skull. We were only there a few days but my body remembers it so well, i have dreams about it all the time.